Bushing Installation

Bushings are the foundation of the entire gear train. A bushing that rotates in its seat will eat your shim stack inside a hundred rounds. Bond them in once, correctly, and they outlast the rest of the build.

• A punch (or proper bushing tool), preferably the same diameter as the bushing face
• JB Weld or Loctite Retaining Compound
• Hammer
• A few paper towels
• A flat file or 120 grit sandpaper
• Isopropyl alcohol
• Cleaned gearbox shell
• The bushings themselves (FLT or Real Deal 8mm steel)

1. Lightly scuff the contact surface between each bushing and its seat in the shell with a file or 120 grit paper. The goal is tooth for the adhesive, not material removal.
2. Degrease the scuffed area with isopropyl. Any oil residue defeats the bond.
3. Apply a bead of Loctite Retaining Compound or JB Weld around the bushing seat, then set the bushing in place.
4. Seat the bushing flush with the shell face using a hammer and punch. Use the punch face that matches the bushing face — the goal is a flat, square seat, not a peened edge.
5. Wipe the inside of the shell with a paper towel to remove any squeeze-out, paying particular attention to the axle bore. Excess adhesive on the outside of the shell is cosmetic; remove only if desired.
6. Cure undisturbed for at least 15 hours before any further work. JB Weld in particular needs the full cure time before it can take the press loads from shimming.

Reference video: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/pwxljNaXRrY